Thursday, October 30, 2008

Christmas Pudding in a Cloth

CHRISTMAS puddings should always be made in the first week in November, according to my cooking bible, the 1974 Cordon Bleu Monthly Cookery Course.
That’s probably why my friend Jamie is desperately seeking a recipe for a traditional plum pudding and put in a request to Jan’s Kitchen.
I can still remember my Mum’s first, and only, attempt at making a pudding in a cloth the way my grandmother and aunts made them.
The pudding oozed out into the water leaving a soggy, if tasty, mess in the cloth.
Then Mum discovered her culinary guru Jean Bowring made her pudding in a bowl. What was good enough for Jean was good enough for us and from then on at Christmas we ate delicious cakey bowl-cooked puddings.
When I inherited responsibility for the Christmas meal, I continued Mum’s tradition.
I have adapted a few recipes to make my own version of the traditional Christmas pudding but have never made it in a cloth.
So to meet Jamie’s recipe request I headed to my black box and recipe book collection.
The search turned up lots of variations on the traditional plum pud but only two mentioned boiling the result in a cloth.
Both assumed you knew how to prepare the cloth, which I knew I did not.
My friend Marion came to the rescue.
``You have to boil the calico first,’’ Marion said.
She said the boiling removed size and other chemicals from the pudding cloth and made it shrink, closing up the holes in the weave.
While the cloth is still hot from boiling, she sprinkles it liberally with flour.
The heat of the cloth ``cooks’’ the flour, forming a crust. This keeps the pudding mix in the cloth.
Then she adds the pudding mix, pulls the calico up tightly into the traditional pudding shape and ties the top firmly, leaving a calico ``stalk’’.
Marion boils a large pudding for about four hours, a small one for about two hours then hangs it to dry ready for Christmas day.
On the day, she boils the pudding again for a couple of hours and serves it with traditional sauces, such as brandy sauce, brandy custard or brandy cream.
At our house we can’t decide which sauce to have so usually have all three, followed by a much-needed lie down.
I will add my Christmas pudding recipe and recipes for the various sauces later this week but here are the two recipes I found for Christmas pudding boiled in a cloth.
The first comes from a recipe book put out by the mothers at Tarnagulla Primary School in about 1981.
The second comes from a recipe leaflet put out by Sunbeam Dried Fruits.
One uses butter, the other suet. My nanna and aunts always used suet, which they bought from the butcher and grated.
The Cordon Bleu cookery course says suet from the butcher is superior to the dry suet available in supermarkets.
Tarnagulla in the 1980s was renowned for its good cooks. ``Ladies’’ had to bring a plate to golf days at Tarnagulla. It was worth the drive from Melbourne to play on the ``sand scrape’’ course just for the afternoon tea.
One of the good cooks was Beth Taig.
Here is Beth Taig’s Christmas Plum Pudding.
(The recipe is in pounds and ounces and I have translated it into grams. I would usually translate them to the nearest 5g but in this case have rounded to an easier amount as a few extra raisins and so on will make no difference to the result. I have also made a few changes in the method section to make it clearer.)
Ingredients

500g (1 lb or 16oz) plain flour
250g (½ lb or 8oz) currants
500g (1 lb or 16 oz) butter
500g (1 lb or 16 oz) sultanas
2 cups bread crumbs
2 tab marmalade jam
6 eggs
1 pkt (about 375g) raisins
250g (½ lb or 8 oz) sugar
1 pkt (about 375g) mixed fruit
1 cup sherry
1 teas mixed spice
1 des cinnamon
1 teas carb soda (bicarbonate of soda) dissolved in boiling water
Nuts if wanted

Method
Soak fruit overnight with sherry. Rub together shredded butter and flour. Put bread crumbs and 1 teas mixed spice and 1 des cinnamon into flour. Beat together eggs and sugar. Mix together well all fruit, flour and egg mixture. Add nuts (if desired) and marmalade jam. Lastly add the carb soda. Put on a VERY well floured damped cloth and tie tightly. Boil 5-6 hours.
NB Damp cloth in boiling water and wring out. Also place an enamel plate under pudding so it doesn’t catch on bottom while boiling.

Here is Sunbeam Dried Fruits' Traditional Christmas Pudding
Ingredients
375g (12 oz) Sunbeam seeded raisins, chopped
375g (12 oz) Sunbeam sultanas
250g (8oz) Sunbeam currants
185g (6oz) Sunbeam prunes, chopped
185g (6oz) chopped mixed peel
Grated rind of 1 lemon
90g (3 oz) blanched almonds, chopped (optional)
1 large carrot, grated
250g (8 oz) soft white breadcrumbs
250g (8 oz) butter or finely shredded suet
250g (8 oz) white sugar
125g (4 oz) plain flour
½ teas salt
½ teas nutmeg
1 teas mixed spice
4 eggs
¾ cup milk
½ cup brandy and ½ cup stout (or 1 cup orange juice)

Method
Grease two small or one large basin. Mix all the dry ingredients together. Beat the eggs and add all moist ingredients. Mix the dry and moist ingredients together. Fill the mixture into the basins or, if preferred, use a well-seasoned pudding cloth. Place two thicknesses of foil over the basins and tie securely. Boil steadily for six hours for the large pudding and four hours for the small. On the day the pudding is to be served, boil for one hour.
May your Christmas be bright and your pudding a good one.

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